Tailoring Proccesses

This brief focused more on construction and attention to detail on garments (eg: hand finishing techniques) which initially I thought would appeal to my strengths, due to experience of previous modules. The brief required a Research Manual of historic and contemporary tailoring, including; shop reports, exhibition visits and a visit to the costume department at West Yorkshire Playhouse. From my personal research I developed an androgynous concept for tailoring, for example introducing more 'shaping' into men's tailored jackets by using the construction techniques of that of a women's tailored jacket. The second section of the brief was ongoing throughout; a technical file of tailoring techniques, for example buttonholes, shoulder pads, finished hems, the insertion of a 2-piece sleeve and finally creating a collar and rever. Although I now appreciate the knowledge of these techniques, I found most of them time consuming and rather tedious (especially techniques requiring hand-sewing.) For example, hand-padding a rever and various hand sewing of hems. I found creating the collar and rever very challenging indeed, with many elements to perfect. When it came to prototyping our own innovative version of a collar and rever, I did not feel confident enough with the basic construction to do so. However I compromised with the challenge and altered the rever only. The final section of the brief was to create a Professional Design Package. Including design sheets and a working drawing complete with sampling of the final idea. I came up with the design of a bottom rever at the hemline with a decorative take on the techniques of hand-padding. This suited my design nature of simplistic yet innovative and therefore fashion-forward.